<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"><channel><title>GTO Knowledge Base</title><description>GTO Knowledge Base RSS 2.0 Feed</description><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/</link><webMaster>kb@redgto.com</webMaster><lastBuildDate>Sat, 31 Jul 2010 09:22:26 GMT</lastBuildDate><ttl>20</ttl><generator>GTO Knowledge Base</generator><item><title>Install a F-Body Slave on a GTO</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10830</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;Here's the two slave cylinders side by side, as you can see the only differences in these is the main inlet fitting. The fbody uses a quick disconnect style and the GTO uses a screw fitting, follow along and I'll show you how easy it is to swap these out.&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/d2fb3d32-72f3-4534-a349-b3a4.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;Drive this retaining pin out, don't lose the pin! It will be reused when installing the stock fitting.&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/f9baea9c-a8f6-4727-b636-85cf.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;Seperate the fitting from the slave and keep the new oring.&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/eb65d60a-7172-43c9-8e7d-81ee.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;Here's what the stock GTO setup looks like...&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/70f82bf3-cdb9-40ba-a3b6-4d2c.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;Seperate the line and remove the fitting.&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/9fb2eb6d-cd65-4f42-9f8d-f72b.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;Clean the fitting and install the new oring on the end, then install it into the new slave and drive the pin back in.&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/e283feb0-bb9b-45bc-b7a8-1021.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;New fitting installed on the new slave.&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/a0ddad3c-c980-46e8-b01d-36db.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;New slave cylinder assembly installed on the transmission.&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/57c2dfbe-26f2-43e0-b121-9126.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;If you are installing a remote bleeder here is the fitting that allows you to inst</description><pubDate>Tue, 28 Oct 2008 23:55:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>Differential, Manual Transmission &amp; Engine Oil changes</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10377</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT size=6&gt;Differential, Manual Transmission &amp;amp; Engine Oil changes&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT size=5&gt;The Fluids&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Castrol Syntec 0w-30 motor oil (aka German Castrol or GC)&lt;BR&gt;K&amp;amp;N Oil Filter, &lt;STRIKE&gt;HP-1008&lt;/STRIKE&gt;  HP-1007&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Torco RGO gear oil, 85w140&lt;BR&gt;Torco Type F Limited Slip additive&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Royal Purple Synchromax transmission fluid&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/6a5462d7-cc14-4c6e-857b-9553.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Here is the hand pump. I purchased it from Advance Auto Parts for a couple bucks. The tube for it was actually longer, but I cut it in half so I can get to the hard to reach places easier, and it's also easier to pump when you have half the hose.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/a1476e66-8cc8-4457-9a50-0fea.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;U&gt;&lt;FONT size=4&gt;REAR DIFFERENTIAL:&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/U&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;Last year I suffered from the dreaded "whine" some of our diffs can make. So the dealer replaced the entire rear end, which you can read about &lt;A href="http://www.ls2gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117377" target=_blank&gt;&lt;FONT color=#000000&gt;here&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/A&gt;. Some people say you should do a 500 mile break in with the new diff, some don't. I decided to play it safe and break it in. After the 500 miles was up I wanted to swap out the stock fluid for something a little tougher.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Here is a pic of the drain and fill holes:&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/08fb3f5f-f704-4398-9f1f-ea5f.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;It takes a 30mm wrench to get the fill plug off, and a 15mm to get the drain plug off.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;I drained the stock gear oil. It was a thick, gray-ish color. I could also see some metal flakes mixed in with the fluid. It wasn't alot, but enough that you could see it pass by. Oh, and like alot of people have said on here... this fluid STINKS! Once the fluid was drained, put the drain plug back in (duh).&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Next, I used the hand</description><pubDate>Mon, 27 Oct 2008 23:57:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>Install a Billet Prototypes Oil Catch Can</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10568</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; TEXT-ALIGN: center" align=center&gt;&lt;B style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 36pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"&gt;BILLET PROTOTYPES OIL &lt;?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; TEXT-ALIGN: center" align=center&gt;&lt;B style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 36pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"&gt;CATCH CAN&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 36pt"&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3&gt; &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;TABLE class=MsoNormalTable style="WIDTH: 100%; mso-cellspacing: 1.5pt; mso-padding-alt: 1.5pt 1.5pt 1.5pt 1.5pt" cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=1&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR style="HEIGHT: 0.25in; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-firstrow: yes"&gt;&lt;TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; PADDING-RIGHT: 1.5pt; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; PADDING-LEFT: 1.5pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 1.5pt; BORDER-LEFT: #ece9d8; WIDTH: 107.2pt; PADDING-TOP: 1.5pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ece9d8; HEIGHT: 0.25in; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=143&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;SPAN style="COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"&gt;COST:&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;SPAN style="COLOR: black"&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; PADDING-RIGHT: 1.5pt; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; PADDING-LEFT: 1.5pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 1.5pt; BORDER-LEFT: #ece9d8; WIDTH: 326.3pt; PADDING-TOP: 1.5pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ece9d8; HEIGHT: 0.25in; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=435&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;SPAN style="COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"&gt;$110 USD - $145 USD&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;TR style="HEIGHT: 17.25pt; mso-yfti-irow: 1"&gt;&lt;TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; PADDING-RIGHT: 1.5pt; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; PADDING-LEFT: 1.5pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 1.5pt; </description><pubDate>Wed, 13 Aug 2008 01:17:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>I have written up a couple of threads on upgrading my GTO.  Is it possible to upload them to the KB?</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10053</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;Please email all How-to guides to &lt;A href="mailto:05gto@cox.net"&gt;05gto@cox.net&lt;/A&gt;.  Please be specific with the install and arrows on pictures to show what you are refering to are always helpful.  Once I receive the document I will post it in the knowledge base.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Thanks&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Chris (Cyclone Chris)&lt;/P&gt;</description><pubDate>Sun, 23 Sep 2007 03:55:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>Ignition Cylinder removal and disassembly</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10532</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT color=#ff1111&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;Disclaimer!!! This thread is for reference only!! I take no responsibility for any damage you cause if you try this!&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;So let's get started:&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Remove lower dash panel and then remove the airbag fuse&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG height=480 hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/3afbb0f5-9bcb-4b10-979f-c0b4.jpg" width=640 border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Remove Negative Battery Connection&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG height=480 hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/c8167e4a-be36-482c-b23a-3bd5.jpg" width=640 border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Remove Ignition trim cover screw. There is only 1&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG height=480 hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/18486ccc-8c70-429e-a1da-4f8e.jpg" width=640 border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Separate the upper and lower trim covers. This is done by pushing back on the bottom cover while pulling forward and up on the top. This step is a little tricky. There are tabs that catch on the front. You need to disconnect these by pushing the bottom back.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG height=480 hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/392a69eb-8b28-4aef-8359-ea98.jpg" width=640 border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Remove the key FOB interface from the cylinder. Disconnect wires from the interface first. The unit just slides off the cylinder.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG height=480 hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/c5303d79-9150-44ab-9fdb-70de.jpg" width=640 border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Remove the ignition cylinder. This is done by turning the key to the ON position and insert a small Allen or drill bit into the hole on top of the cylinder. When you push down the tab inside the cylinder, you will be able to turn the key slightly and remove the entire cylinder assembly.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG height=480 hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/3bac1e9e-9361-49b5-8020-08c3.jpg" width=640 border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Cylinder Disassembly. Turn the key until you are fully on. Push down the pin and turn the key further to release the pin. Be ready to catch it. It's pretty clea</description><pubDate>Sun, 02 Sep 2007 04:33:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>Install Billet Products Short Throw Shifter</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10443</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="DISPLAY: none; COLOR: black; mso-hide: all"&gt;&lt;?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;TABLE class=MsoNormalTable style="mso-cellspacing: 0in; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR style="HEIGHT: 8.25pt; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-firstrow: yes"&gt;&lt;TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: #ece9d8; WIDTH: 18.75pt; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ece9d8; HEIGHT: 8.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" vAlign=top width=25&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-line-height-alt: 8.25pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="COLOR: black"&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: #ece9d8; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ece9d8; HEIGHT: 8.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" vAlign=top&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 8pt; COLOR: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt"&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial size=7&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;TABLE class=MsoNormalTable style="mso-cellspacing: 0in; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR style="HEIGHT: 8.25pt; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-firstrow: yes"&gt;&lt;TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: #ece9d8; WIDTH: 18.75pt; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ece9d8; HEIGHT: 8.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" vAlign=top width=25&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-line-height-alt: 8.25pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="COLOR: black"&gt;&lt;?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /&gt;&lt;v:shapetype id=_x0000_t75 stroked="f" filled="f" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@1</description><pubDate>Fri, 13 Jul 2007 03:29:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>Temporary Fix for 05 Pedal</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10442</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial size=6&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;Temporary Fix for 05 Pedal&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I am not going to guarantee this will work, nor do I want any responsibility of anything negative that happens as a result of you trying this, but if you are waiting on a new pedal, and find your gto undrivable, what do you have to lose?&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Step 1: Remove the pedal from the car.&lt;BR&gt;This is really simple. First, the wire harness must be pulled off the top of the pedal assembly. It comes off straight up, squeezing the sides.&lt;BR&gt;Next, there are two bolts located on the top of the pedal assembly, once these are removed, the pedal slides up and out.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Step 2: Remove Cover.&lt;BR&gt;There are 5 small torx bits that need to be removed. The cover then comes off.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/8428bd68-f785-4801-8bf9-802e.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Step 3: Clean Contact Area&lt;BR&gt;This can be done with a dry cotton swab (q-tip). Just lightly clean the surface marked below. Most likely it is clean, but I would do this just to make sure.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/10c4a7df-2501-4c82-b8fc-5977.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Step 4: Bend Metal "fingers"&lt;BR&gt;This part involves a little more care, because these metal fingers are delicate, especially where they split on the ends. What you want to do is just bend all four of them up a small amount. The goal here is to allow better contact between the metal fingers and the contact surface. Use good judgement in how much to bend them. I recommend using the q-tip horizontally under the fingers and gently bending them up as pictured below. Dont bend from the very end of the fingers, maybe about halfway up.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/e0d5e113-bf8b-4697-b841-8ccd.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Step 5: Reassemble pedal, Reinstall in car, connect wire harness, and hope it works.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt; &lt;/P&gt;</description><pubDate>Mon, 14 May 2007 06:38:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>Install Front Sway Bar Bushings / D-Bushings</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10374</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT size=5&gt;Front D-Bushing Install Guide&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/e9fb9e56-0b09-410a-9fa4-af44.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;1.  First pic just compares the stock and Pedders bushing. Although you can't appreciate it in the picture, the rounded side of the stock bushing is 1/2 the thickness of the Pedders, and you can compress it easily with your fingers.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/7adcb2f2-8dcc-4cbb-8f8e-e774.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/912cc6db-9131-4ebc-bd6e-797b.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;2.  Second pic is a view of the passenger side bracket, which is a little tougher than the drivers side due to an AC hose lying over the rear bolt. The third pic shows how you can reach it with 3 extensions (I used wobble extensions, would be tough otherwise).&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/dc0debd1-ebfa-438d-bb07-3ef6.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;3.  Fourth pic is a view of the area we're talking about.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/5613d7f0-dfc0-4895-bcce-84ee.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;4.  This pic is a close-up of the bracket. If you can't reach the nut from above you can get to it with an open-end wrench from here, just takes a little longer to get the nut off.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/47d9fde1-5a7c-468a-8532-45f7.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;5. Remove the nut in the picture above (red arrow) and remove the endlink from the swaybar. You may have to jack up the control arm a bit to do this.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/06f4e7cb-8eb4-45a1-8e10-19d0.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;6.  Once you have gotten the bracket and old bushing off, clean the area and install the new bushing. Only grease the part of the bushing that touches the sway bar. Reinstall the bracket and tighten the nuts to 20 lb-ft. Reins</description><pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2007 03:54:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>Clutch and Flywheel Install</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10175</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;FONT size=3&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="mso-no-proof: yes"&gt;&lt;?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;If all goes well look for about 7 hours of a somewhat difficult install.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /&gt;&lt;v:shapetype id=_x0000_t202 path="m,l,21600r21600,l21600,xe" o:spt="202" coordsize="21600,21600"&gt;&lt;v:stroke joinstyle="miter"&gt;&lt;/v:stroke&gt;&lt;v:path o:connecttype="rect" gradientshapeok="t"&gt;&lt;/v:path&gt;&lt;/v:shapetype&gt;&lt;v:shape id=_x0000_s1028 style="MARGIN-TOP: 94.2pt; Z-INDEX: 3; MARGIN-LEFT: 54pt; WIDTH: 45pt; POSITION: absolute; HEIGHT: 18pt" type="#_x0000_t202"&gt;&lt;/v:shape&gt;&lt;v:shape id=_x0000_s1026 style="MARGIN-TOP: 76.2pt; Z-INDEX: 1; MARGIN-LEFT: 2in; WIDTH: 1in; POSITION: absolute; HEIGHT: 36pt" type="#_x0000_t202"&gt;&lt;/v:shape&gt;At the end of this there are some notes on bleeding the clutch as well.&lt;SPAN style="mso-no-proof: yes"&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/ed897e80-77a6-4e40-bde0-1bf1.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;B style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"&gt;&lt;U&gt;Tools Needed:&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/U&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;You will need, ratchets (I used 1/2 and 3/8) and metric sockets, many extensions, Wiggle joint or u joint extension, E-18 external torx socket (tough to find), large flathead screwdriver, various metric wrenches, light, jack, 4 jack stands (you need 1ft or more clearance off the ground to make it easy), transmission jack if you have access to one and friends, one will work, but two is better.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;</description><pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2007 03:54:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>LS7 Clutch Details</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10039</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;We have successfully installed an LS7 clutch assembly into a 2005 GTO and a 2004 GTO.  The trick is you have to use the Y-Body style LS2 flywheel, it will not work with a GTO specific flywheel.  &lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;Weight Info:&lt;BR&gt;Stock LS1 (2004 GTO) - 49lbs&lt;BR&gt;Stock LS7 (2006 Z06) - 57lbs&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;P/n 12571611, Flywheel, LS2/LS7:&lt;BR&gt;------------------------------------&lt;BR&gt;Suggested List - 272.99&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;P/n &lt;STRIKE&gt;24236500&lt;/STRIKE&gt;, &lt;STRONG&gt;(NEW PART # 24237690)&lt;/STRONG&gt; Press Plt/disc, LS7: (NEW PART #)&lt;BR&gt;------------------------------------&lt;BR&gt;Suggested List - 457.86&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;(Part # for Pressure Plate Bolts - GM 11516862)&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;LS2 GTO Flywheel&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/pictures/LS2GTOFlywheel.jpg"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;LS2/LS7 Corvette Flywheel&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/pictures/LS2-LS7VetteFlywheel.jpg"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Another pic of LS2/LS7 Corvette Flywheel&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/pictures/LS2-LS7VetteFlywheel2.jpg"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;LS2 GTO Disc&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/pictures/LS2GTODisc.jpg"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;LS7 Corvette Disc&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/pictures/LS7Disc.jpg"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;LS2 GTO Pressure Plate&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/pictures/LS2GTOPressurePlate.jpg"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;LS7 Corvette Pressure Plate&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/pictures/LS7PressurePlate.jpg"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Anoth</description><pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2007 03:54:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>How To Install New Injectors</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10360</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT size=5&gt;THE PARTS:&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;39 lb EV6 Injectors off an 04 Mustang Cobra&lt;BR&gt;Katech LS2 Fuel Rail Spacer Kit&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/4cbbeb6d-6d51-4832-9f78-b629.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/c07a0976-1995-47fc-a6dd-ac3a.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT size=5&gt;FUEL RAIL REMOVAL&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Remove Strut Tower Brace.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/83151cc3-3c8f-4767-bc20-8bb1.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Using a deep well 8mm socket remove the 4 fuel rail bolts.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/4f603ea6-d1ff-46ed-9ba5-0eed.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Using an 8mm socket remove the 4 bolts that hold the brackets and intake manifold.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/75a0c1ae-cff6-4fd1-95c1-b181.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Using an 8mm socket remove bolt that holds the grounding strap in place.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/43ffa9bc-49b1-48f8-95c3-ca5f.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Remove 8 Grey Clips from Injector Harness&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/cf10625a-56e6-42b2-b031-162f.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Grey Clips&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/6e80a29f-d210-4de7-b846-bd34.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;To remove injector connectors, press on the top center part of the connector and pull the connector away from the injector.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/b7d99e65-263b-47b2-99f4-de57.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;De-Pressurize the Fuel Rail.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;FONT color=#dd3333&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;Warning:  Do not smoke during this procedure.  Do will be releasing about 4 oz of fuel.&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/e90d95d5-b72c-44ba-8f8c-1645.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Pull onto fuel rail and pull out both sides of the injectors.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="</description><pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2007 03:52:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>Reduce LS2 Heatsoak - LS2 IAT Relocate</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10279</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT size=5&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;IAT Relocate&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;FONT size=5&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial size=3&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;PARTS:                 &lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;FONT face=Verdana&gt;Caspers MAF/IAT Breakout  &lt;BR&gt;                      98 Camaro IAT Sensor &lt;BR&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial size=3&gt;&lt;FONT face=Verdana&gt;                      Omega Precision Thermistor&lt;BR&gt;                      Rubber Grommet &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT size=3&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;TIME:                      &lt;/STRONG&gt;10-20 mins&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial size=3&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;DIFFICULTY:&lt;/STRONG&gt;         Beginner&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial size=3&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;PARTS LINKS:&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;    &lt;A href="https://www.casperselectronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&amp;amp;Product_Code=108136&amp;amp;Category_Code="&gt;MAF/IAT Breakout GT Dense Harness&lt;BR&gt;&lt;/A&gt;                           &lt;A href="http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=44000_THERMIS_ELEMENTS&amp;amp;Nav=temd11"&gt;Omega Precision Thermistor 44005&lt;BR&gt;&lt;/A&gt;                           IAT Sensor - Local Advance Auto Parts&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT size=4&gt;PART 1:&amp;nb</description><pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2007 03:52:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>Install Holden Phone Buttons</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10004</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;COST:                  $56.00 Holden Parts (Shipping included)&lt;BR&gt;                            $5.00 LED's (Radioshack)&lt;BR&gt;                            $5.00 Connectors (Radioshack)&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;TIME:                    4-8 Hours - Took me about 8 hours.  &lt;BR&gt;                             &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;Had to figure out a bunch of stuff along the way.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;DIFFICULTY:         Intermediate&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;H3 style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;PART 1:  LED'S &amp;amp; WIRING HOLDEN BUTTONS&lt;/H3&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;&lt;FONT color=#111111&gt;Parts you will need: &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;P/N:  92111637 - COVER, ACSRY SW&lt;BR&gt;P/N:  92111641 - BEZEL, ACSRY SW&lt;BR&gt;P/N:  92172330 - PHONE SWITCH X2  &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;All parts $57 AUD + $15 AUD Shipping = $72 AUD = $56.00 USD&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/0697c1ce-4eb5-42fa-a862-2c6c.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/6893c9b0-25b6-4a03-b697-8dff.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/FO</description><pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2007 03:51:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>I was just wondering on the K&amp;N Air Charger, have you or do you know of any problems with the oil ketting on the MAF? And does the heat sheild really keep the heat out.</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10393</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; There have been problems in the past with the oils messing up the MAF.  I recommend using a towel and dap the filter in it to remove excess oil.  The heatshield does a decent job keeping the hot air out, however the hot air will find a way in there :)</description><pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2007 03:38:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>Rough ride on anything but smooth pavement.The bumps are jarring. Is this normal or should I have it checked out.Thanks, Zaditor</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10397</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; Not normal.  Have it checked out by your service dept.</description><pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2007 03:36:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>If I roll the fender lip can I get 275/40/17s on my stock rims in the rear with no rub? PLEASE HELP!!!</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10400</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; Simply Put.  Yes you can with the fenders rolled or grinded.</description><pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2007 03:32:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>I Emailed the guy who placed the article for installing the B/M  shifter but have not got a responce. My question is, are there any problems when reinstalling the console, does it fit snug or loose? Thanks. David</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10407</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; Everything fits very snug when put back together.  Remember to install all the screws back in and you'll be fine.</description><pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2007 03:28:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>what does an amw oil catcher do for your gto?</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10408</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; It catches all the oil that is redirected into the Intake Manifold to be burned.</description><pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2007 03:27:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>Is a special tool required to get the spark plug wire boots off?  I was afraid they were going to break.  Thanks for your help.</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10409</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; No, a special tool is not required to remove the spark plug wire.  Just pull and wiggle.</description><pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2007 03:25:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>How well will just adding a K&amp;N FIPK ( air intake)  work on a completely stock 2004 GTO 5.7 ls1?</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10410</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; You will see minimal gains of 5-8 rwhp, however you will get the full potential of an intake along with a Tune.</description><pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2007 03:23:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>How to increase the idle in 06 GTO.</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10411</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; Any tuner can do that for you.  You can even purchase a handheld tuner such as the Diablo Predator or HP Tuners/EFI Live and do it yourself.</description><pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2007 03:20:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>Upgrade Cabin Air Filter</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10318</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;Decided that it was time to have proper cabin air filtering. The only other solution I had seen was duct taping heater material over in air inlet. Not a "great" long term solution for me. So here is what I did - pics attached:&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;1. Remove screw/clips to lift up rain guard and expose the air intake for the cabin HVAC. &lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/f45b60fe-5280-4a7f-b358-0b3f.JPG" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;BR&gt;2. Remove the High Performance GM Wire Mesh "Filter" by lifting up on the clip on the front. Comes right off. You will now note that there is a shelf ready made for a drop in filter of the right dimensions. &lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/fb0aeca0-959e-4223-9b2b-ee63.JPG" border=0&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;3. Purchase the Fram CF8921 activated charcoal impregnated cabin air filter seen here next to the GM version.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/b87688d9-ce0b-48bd-bf7a-b4b6.JPG" border=0&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;4. Here is where it gets just a little messy, though not difficult by any means (if you can use scissors). The Fram might fit in nicely on the shelf in the inlet - but the back of the inlet tapers down to a "V" shape and the edging of the filter will not fit. After trying to trim frame and a couple of other attempts - I put the GM screen on it as a template and cut the filter to the same size (along the long side) and was going to glue the back piece back on.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/effa1db8-4f4f-4e51-8d84-8fe5.JPG" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;BR&gt;5. After one trial attempt for size - I realized that the filter material actually conformed and pushed right in to the tapered area in back, and the other 3 sides fit perfectly. There is foam around the frame of the Fram - and it fits perfectly and holds the filter in place.  As you can see - I also tapered the back edges a little - but that was only necessary on the Driver's side - so do it there.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1g</description><pubDate>Tue, 05 Dec 2006 14:20:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>I have an 04 gto.  I am told it is the car intended to be the w40 anniversary model.  </title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10291</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;There were 794 Pulse Red GTO's.  Pulse red is color RPO 79U.  The color was a part of an option package 'W40'.  282 Automatic Transmission GTO's and 512 Manual Transmission GTO's make up the 'W40' Production.  &lt;?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;While the paperwork and RPO code itself were intended as a '40th Anniversary' edition; the package was lacking in performance upgrades or other appearance modifications to warrant such a name.&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;The upgrades include a grey dash as well as red stitching for the GTO in the front seats.&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/b752ccb2-6e4d-4ea0-b8e5-3996.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/643b2ee1-079a-4fe0-83af-6d56.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/05d87485-10d7-4a5f-aeab-32ae.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;/P&gt;</description><pubDate>Sun, 12 Nov 2006 08:06:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>Rear Spring Installation</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10038</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; The rear Springs are a bit easier&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;First release the emergency brake - this will let the rear come down a bit more.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;After you jack up the rear and settle it on stands, remove the rear wheels.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Remove the lower shock bolt (blue arrow)&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7252&amp;amp;stc=1"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;If you can’t get the Spring to pop out, remove the end-link nut and maybe even the tie rod bolt (red arrows) so the swing arm will lower a bit more&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Now use your longest Pry Bar (25-inch plus) and wedge it into the top of the spring and pop the top of the spring off of the ‘knob’ that is holding it in place.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7253&amp;amp;stc=1"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Pop the new spring in and replace the lower shock bolt.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Replace/torque the rear wheels&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Now step back and admire the new look.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;</description><pubDate>Fri, 11 Aug 2006 15:17:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>Knock Noise from Front Suspension When Driving at Low Speeds Over Bumps (1835023)</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10177</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;TABLE border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width=100&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;Subject:&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;Knock Noise from Front Suspension When Driving at Low Speeds Over Bumps/Uneven Road Surfaces (Install New Strut-to-Steering Knuckle Attaching Bolts and Nuts or New Front Lower Control Arm Rod Nut) #04-03-08-014A - (06/06/2006)&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;DIV align=left&gt;&lt;TABLE border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width=100&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;Models:&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;2004-2006 Pontiac GTO&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;&lt;H3&gt;Condition&lt;/H3&gt;&lt;P&gt;Some customers may comment on a knock noise from the front suspension when driving at low speeds over bumps or uneven road surfaces.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;A name=ss2-1835023&gt;&lt;H3&gt;Cause&lt;/H3&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG height=296 alt="Object Number: 1544338  Size: SH" src="http://service.gm.com/engif/000/001/544/1544338.gif" width=320 align=top useMap=#1544338.map border=0&gt; &lt;BR&gt;&lt;A href="http://service.gm.com/servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=1544338"&gt;&lt;/A&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;This condition may be caused by the lower coil of the spring touching on the side lip of the spring seat. The illustration above shows the rub mark on the spring coil.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;The spring coils contacting the body sheet metal within the wheelhouse area may also cause this condition.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;H3&gt;Correction&lt;/H3&gt;&lt;OL&gt;&lt;/OL&gt;&lt;H4&gt;Inspection&lt;/H4&gt;&lt;OL&gt;&lt;LI type=1&gt;Inspect the tightness of all front suspension fasteners. If they are OK, proceed to Step 2. &lt;LI type=1&gt;Inspect the body sheet metal around the inside of the strut tower for signs of spring coil rubbing. &lt;LI type=1&gt;Inspect the second lower coil on the inboard side of the spring for signs of chipped or marked paint, as shown in the previous illustration. &lt;LI type=1&gt;If marks are found as described in Steps 2 and 3, proceed to Procedure A. &lt;/LI&gt;&lt;/OL&gt;&lt;H4&gt;Procedure A&lt;/H4&gt;&lt;P&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;H4&gt;Tools Required&lt;/H4&gt;&lt;P&gt;J 45059 Angle Meter&lt;/P&gt;&lt;O</description><pubDate>Sat, 17 Jun 2006 05:42:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>Rough Motion Felt During Front Seat Movement 05-08-50-006</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10179</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;TABLE border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width=100&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;Subject:&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;Rough Motion Felt During Front Seat Movement (Install Seat Track Dampener) #05-08-50-006 - (04/08/2005)&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;DIV align=left&gt;&lt;TABLE border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width=100&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;Models:&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;2004 Pontiac GTO&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;&lt;DIV align=left&gt;&lt;TABLE border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width=100&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;Built Prior to VIN Breakpoint 4L397250&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;&lt;P&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;H3&gt;Condition&lt;/H3&gt;&lt;P&gt;Some customers may comment that rough motion can be felt during front seat forward and rearward movements.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;A name=ss2-1645326&gt;&lt;H3&gt;Correction&lt;/H3&gt;&lt;P&gt;To smooth the forward and rearward operation of the seat, install a seat track dampener to both front seats using the procedure listed below.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;OL&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG height=296 alt="Object Number: 1633083  Size: SH" src="http://service.gm.com/engif/000/001/633/1633083.gif" width=320 align=top useMap=#1633083.map border=0&gt; &lt;BR&gt;&lt;A href="http://service.gm.com/servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=1633083"&gt;&lt;/A&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;LI type=1&gt;Move the seat to the mid-position using the seat controls. Mid-position is when the front of the track rails are level. &lt;LI type=1&gt;Raise the seat to the full up position using the seat controls. &lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG height=296 alt="Object Number: 1633086  Size: SH" src="http://service.gm.com/engif/000/001/633/1633086.gif" width=320 align=top useMap=#1633086.map border=0&gt; &lt;BR&gt;&lt;A href="http://service.gm.com/servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=1633086"&gt;&lt;/A&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;LI type=1&gt;For older vehicles that do not have the cable tray-style wiring harness (built prior to March 2004), release the seat cushion cover flap J-clip. &lt;LI type=1&gt;Remove the side cover. &lt;LI type=1&gt;Remove </description><pubDate>Sat, 17 Jun 2006 05:39:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>Speedometer Erratic Movement,  etc</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10178</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;TABLE border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width=100&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;Subject:&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;Speedometer Erratic Movement, Fuel Gauge Does Not Go to Full After FIlling, Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge Reads Hot and Coolant Temperature Light Illuminates (Reprogram IPC) #05-08-49-003A - (04/18/2005)&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;DIV align=left&gt;&lt;TABLE border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width=100&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;Models:&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;2004 Pontiac GTO&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;&lt;DIV align=left&gt;&lt;TABLE border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width=100&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;Built Prior to VIN Breakpoint &lt;EM&gt;4L296011&lt;/EM&gt; &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;&lt;P&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;H3&gt;Condition&lt;/H3&gt;&lt;P&gt;Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:&lt;/P&gt;&lt;DIV align=left&gt;&lt;TABLE border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top&gt;    • &lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top&gt;Speedometer jumps erratically. Gauge may go up to 200 MPH or not return to zero.&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;&lt;DIV align=left&gt;&lt;TABLE border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top&gt;    • &lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top&gt;Fuel gauge does not move off empty when tank is full.&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;&lt;DIV align=left&gt;&lt;TABLE border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top&gt;    • &lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top&gt;Engine coolant temperature gauge reads hot and coolant temperature light illuminates.&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;&lt;P&gt;These conditions may be intermittent.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;H3&gt;Correction&lt;/H3&gt;&lt;P&gt;Technicians are to reprogram the IPC with an updated software calibration. This new service calibration was released with TIS satellite data update version 1.0 available January 10, 2005. As always, make sure your Tech 2® is updated with the latest software version. &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT color=brown&gt;&lt;B&gt;Import</description><pubDate>Sat, 17 Jun 2006 05:30:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>BCM Security Code Location #06-08-47-003</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10176</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;The purpose of this bulletin is to inform dealers of the location of the security code PIN on body control modules (BCM) supplied as service parts. This code must be used when programming new remote key fobs or when linking the engine control module (ECM), powertrain control module (PCM), and power inverter module (PIM) to the BCM.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG height=296 alt="Object Number: 1831314  Size: SH" src="http://service.gm.com/engif/000/001/831/1831314.gif" width=320 align=top useMap=#1831314.map border=0&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;The 6-digit numerical code (1) is printed on a plain label which is attached to the body of the replacement BCM as shown in the illustration. Please ensure that the 6-digit numerical code is recorded in relevant records (including the customer's security card). Leave the label attached to the BCM.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;TABLE width="100%"&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD align=left width=778&gt;&lt;FONT size=1&gt;GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer".  They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle.  Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely.  If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition.  See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;/P&gt;</description><pubDate>Sat, 17 Jun 2006 05:27:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>05-06 Volant Installation</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10171</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;B&gt;&lt;P align=left&gt;Volant Cold Air Induction Installation Instructions &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P align=left&gt;P/N 15860150 &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P align=left&gt;2005-2006 Pontiac GTO 6.0L LS2 &lt;/P&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;I&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman,Times New Roman"&gt;&lt;P align=left&gt;Parts List (edited for discrepancies in packaged instructions): &lt;/P&gt;&lt;/I&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;P align=right&gt;&lt;TABLE style="WIDTH: 667px; HEIGHT: 280px" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=7 width=667 border=1&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width="25%" height=21&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman,Times New Roman"&gt;&lt;P align=center&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;1 &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width="25%" height=21&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman,Times New Roman"&gt;&lt;P align=left&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;Volant Filter Box &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width="25%" height=21&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman,Times New Roman"&gt;&lt;P align=center&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;2&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width="25%" height=21&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman,Times New Roman"&gt;&lt;P align=left&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;#064 Clamps (Corrected) &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width="25%" height=21&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman,Times New Roman"&gt;&lt;P align=center&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;1 &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width="25%" height=21&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman,Times New Roman"&gt;&lt;P align=left&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;Volant Filter Box Lid &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width="25%" height=21&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman,Times New Roman"&gt;&lt;P align=center&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;4&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width="25%" height=21&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman,Times New Roman"&gt;&lt;P align=left&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;¼"-20 Truss Head Screws &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width="25%" height=21&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman,Times New Roman"&gt;&lt;P align=center&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;1 &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width="25%" height=21&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman,Times New Roman"&gt;&lt;P align=left&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;Volant Filter Box Adapter &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD vAlign=top width="25%" height=21&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times</description><pubDate>Mon, 12 Jun 2006 17:10:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>Replacing Brake Rotors</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10159</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;Use a lift if you have access to one. If not, jack the car up and use jackstands and remove the wheel.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Here's a pic of the wheel off of the front, with the old rotor still on.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/4c4e6342-4b48-49f4-adfe-0b71.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;For the 05-06 GTO, there are two bolts with washers that hold the caliper bracket to the knuckle on the front suspension. These are Torque-To-Yield bolts and the service manual also says to replace both the bolt and washers. Buy a total of 4 of part number 11518238 (bolts, 2 per side) and a total of 4 of part number 92138897 (washers, 1 per bolt). &lt;BR&gt;On the 04 GTO, the bolts are re-usable.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;When re-assembling on the 05-06, tighten to 52 ft. lbs. and then an additional 90 degrees.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;When re-assembling on the 04, tighten to 63 ft. lbs.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/4ef47cfb-2c35-4fe8-a269-d454.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Get a small jackstand (or something similar) to support the caliper so the brake line isn't stressed. Getting the rotor off is usually difficult. The tight tolerances on the hub coupled with a bit of corrosion make it stick. Get a rubber mallet and hit the rotor from the back as you turn it and it will eventually come free.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/83e8016a-ab01-4d59-8e3c-8a78.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Use a couple of oversized nuts along with the lugnuts to seat the new rotor when installing the calipers. Leave the old pad in the caliper and use a C-clamp to slowly push the pistons back into the caliper so it will fit over the new rotor. Then replace the old pads with the new ones and install the caliper.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/509dc3fa-5ab2-4c97-b7a2-ae96.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Here's the shot of the final assembly.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/5e83ee2c-e300-4706-aa46-857a.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;P&gt;Replacing the rear ro</description><pubDate>Fri, 19 May 2006 05:33:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>Pedders "Strut Rod" Bushing Install</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10129</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;DIV id=post_message_559557&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/928f01ff-0193-48cc-adb2-eee4.gif" border=0&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;The bushing is labeled #2 in the drawing (the shop manual calls this the lower control arm rod insulator bushing).&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/531108dc-a683-493d-9270-97b5.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;The kit includes (2) polyurethane bushings, (2) convex washers, (2) metal sleeves, (2) flat washers, a packet of lube, and an assortment of smaller washers that will allow you to adjust your caster. I also had to buy a deep 24mm socket for the center nut. Beer sold separately.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/80526f70-cae8-4934-a558-3cd3.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Get the front of the car up on jackstands. Remove the center nut (24mm). You'll notice the factory bushing flexes quite a bit. This explains the lethargic steering response. Remove the four nuts holding the bushing plate to the subframe (13mm).&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/3eced1db-bdea-4e63-b6e9-455c.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Once you've removed the five nuts, pull the bushing off. As pictured, my Goat had a washer (#10 in diagram) on the driver's side, but not on the passenger's side. I left the washer in place.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/8be4ea72-08e6-4e98-85bd-c60d.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Lube both faces and the insides of the polyurethane bushings. Insert the metal sleeve into the bushing.&lt;/DIV&gt;&lt;DIV&gt; &lt;/DIV&gt;&lt;P id=post_message_559559&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/f9c3dbe6-325c-4e5a-b254-f5f3.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Place the smaller washers onto the rod according to the instructions. The thicker the washer stack, the less positive caster you will get. I scanned the table out of the Pedders instructions and pasted it below. I used the 4mm and 2mm washers to give 0.5 degree more positive camber than stock.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Place one of the larg</description><pubDate>Sat, 01 Apr 2006 12:23:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>JHP GTO Sports Binnacle Gauge Kit Install</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10062</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;The 2005 GTO has a harness right below where the Gauges sit.  The system is as simple as PLUG N PLAY. The 2004 GTO does &lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;FONT color=#dd3333&gt;NOT &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;have this harness.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Note added by DY 3/25/06:&lt;BR&gt;You will have to snake your harness up to the area shown.  To do this follow the installation isntructions that come with the gauges or visit &lt;A href="http://www.jhp.com.au/manuals/JHP_05_GTO_Sports_Binnacle_Kit-Install_Guide.pdf"&gt;http://www.jhp.com.au/manuals/JHP_05_GTO_Sports_Binnacle_Kit-Install_Guide.pdf&lt;/A&gt; &lt;A class=small_link id=CommentGrid__ctl3_hpyLink title="Click to edit article..." href="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/admin/editarticle.aspx?id=10062"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;/A&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Note added by DY 03/04/06:&lt;BR&gt;Be sure to route harness as show:&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/0e8b9d13-4a9d-413d-ac2c-d0a2.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Easy Plug and Play Install as shown:&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/97f3ea98-5271-44c1-9fd5-3f4b.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/1f8d42a3-f6a3-4052-92aa-81ea.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt; &lt;/P&gt;</description><pubDate>Sat, 25 Mar 2006 15:06:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>GM Oil Life System Warning</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10116</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;Your GTO has an Oil Life System incorporated into its computer.  While the computer thinks it knows when you should have your oil changed chances are you use the motor as it was intended.  So we recommend that you check your oil often and change it every 3,000 miles depending on driving and racing habits. &lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"&gt;&lt;?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;This is the reset info for that system, which is located in your owners manual.&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;DIV&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#292526 size=3&gt;&lt;P align=left&gt;How to Reset the Service Engine Oil message&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;FONT face="Swiss 721 SWA" color=#292526 size=1&gt;&lt;P align=left&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial size=2&gt;The GM Oil Life System calculates when to change&lt;BR&gt;your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime&lt;BR&gt;your oil is changed, reset the system so it can&lt;BR&gt;calculate when the next oil change is required. If a&lt;BR&gt;situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a&lt;BR&gt;Service Engine Oil message being turned on, reset the&lt;BR&gt;system.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P align=left&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial size=2&gt;After changing the engine oil, reset the system by&lt;BR&gt;performing the following steps:&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P align=left&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial size=2&gt;1. With the engine off, turn the ignition key to ON.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P align=left&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly&lt;BR&gt;two times within five seconds.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;FONT color=#dd3333&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;This is an error and really should be press and &lt;BR&gt;release accelerator pedal slowly three tim</description><pubDate>Mon, 13 Mar 2006 17:05:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>What is CAGS and how to remove it</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10109</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;CAGS stands for &lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;C&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;omputer &lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;A&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;ided &lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;G&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;ear &lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;S&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;election &lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;&lt;?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/bd2303d6-cb87-4426-9a69-3353.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;The CAGS system can be found on all LS1 based vehicles that are equipped with a manual transmission.  To aid in better gas mileage it activates a solenoid that closes the gate to second gear forcing you to shift from 1st to 4th.  It should only activate between 15 and 19mph.&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;You can remove it with custom PCM tuning via LS1/LS2edit, HPtuners, or Diablosport software.  &lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;There is another solution that usually costs $20 - $30.  It is an electronic item that disables that solenoid.&lt;SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"&gt;  &lt;/SPAN&gt;It plugs in line of the wiring harness and is a simple override.&lt;SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"&gt;  &lt;/SPAN&gt;When installing this item make sure you are doing it to the right harness – there is a second solenoid that blocks the gate to reverse.&lt;SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"&gt;  &lt;/SPAN&gt;If the override does not work then simply try the other harness.&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/Attachments/3875a462-21cd-4099-8b0f-3673.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;</description><pubDate>Sat, 04 Mar 2006 18:39:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>LS2 Tuning Information</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10072</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;As of Jan 2006, HPTuners or Diablosport have not realeased their PCM reprogrammers.  There are currently a few independent tuners doing LS2Edits with great success.  &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;The catch can is used as a oil collection point to prevent excess oil from entering the throttle body.  &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;EDIT BY DY 01/21/06:&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;HPTuners 2.0 has been available to tuners with LS2 support since fall of 2005, along with Carputing's LS2 edit.  No consumer versions are out yet, but HPT should be out shortly.  The Diablosport Predators for the LS2 vehicles just started shipping.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;EDIT BY DY 03/04/06:&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;HPTuners is out in consumer version for LS2 cars.  Diablosport has LS2 support now as well for their Predator hand held programmers.&lt;/P&gt;</description><pubDate>Sat, 04 Mar 2006 16:25:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>Does the GTOs engine computer tie into the Blaupunkt head unit?  </title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10075</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; Everything should work fine except for the fact that you won't be able to see any Headunit Info in the Driver Information Center (DIC) on the dash.  For example:  Volume, &amp;amp; Radio Station Frequency.</description><pubDate>Sat, 21 Jan 2006 10:23:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>My LS2 GTO shows "Performance Reduced Saftey Mode", what does this mean?</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10060</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; This problem could quite possibly be related to the Throttle Position Sensor problem a few 2005 GTO's have been experiencing.  Take vehicle to dealership.</description><pubDate>Sat, 21 Jan 2006 10:23:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>My Driver Seat no longer moves back and forth.</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10055</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; There is a TSB regarding the power seat issue.  Dampener clips should be installed by the dealer to prevent the rocky sliding movement.  Sounds like your seat is hung up on something or the seat motor just died on you.  Take to local dealership for repair, and inquire about TSB.</description><pubDate>Sat, 21 Jan 2006 10:21:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>Install an Orssom Performance Short Throw Shifter</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10078</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;TABLE class=MsoNormalTable style="WIDTH: 457.5pt; mso-cellspacing: 0in; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=610 border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR style="mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes"&gt;&lt;TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: #ece9d8; WIDTH: 438.75pt; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ece9d8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" vAlign=top width=585&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 24pt; COLOR: #9a9a9a; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"&gt;&lt;FONT color=#111111&gt;Orssom Performance Short Throw Shifter for GTO/Monaro&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;SPAN style="COLOR: black"&gt;&lt;?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="DISPLAY: none; COLOR: black; mso-hide: all"&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3&gt; &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;TABLE class=MsoNormalTable style="mso-cellspacing: 0in; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR style="HEIGHT: 8.25pt; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-firstrow: yes"&gt;&lt;TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: #ece9d8; WIDTH: 18.75pt; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ece9d8; HEIGHT: 8.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" vAlign=top width=25&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-line-height-alt: 8.25pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="COLOR: black"&gt;&lt;?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /&gt;&lt;v:shapetype id=_x0000_t75 stroked="f" filled="f" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" o:preferrelative="t" o:spt="75" coordsize="21600,21600"&gt;&lt;v:stroke joinstyle="miter"&gt;&lt;/v:stroke&gt;&lt;v:formulas&gt;&lt;v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"&gt;&lt;/v:f&gt;&lt;v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"&gt;&lt;/v:f&gt;&lt;v:f eqn="</description><pubDate>Wed, 11 Jan 2006 00:48:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>Install Umnitza Angel Eyes on GTO</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10077</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;TABLE class=MsoNormalTable style="WIDTH: 457.5pt; mso-cellspacing: 0in; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=610 border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR style="mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes"&gt;&lt;TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: #ece9d8; WIDTH: 438.75pt; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ece9d8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" vAlign=top width=585&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 24pt; COLOR: #9a9a9a; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"&gt;&lt;FONT color=#111111&gt;Angel Eye Install for GTO&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;SPAN style="COLOR: black"&gt;&lt;?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="DISPLAY: none; COLOR: black; mso-hide: all"&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3&gt; &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;TABLE class=MsoNormalTable style="mso-cellspacing: 0in; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR style="HEIGHT: 8.25pt; mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-firstrow: yes"&gt;&lt;TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: #ece9d8; WIDTH: 18.75pt; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ece9d8; HEIGHT: 8.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" vAlign=top width=25&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-line-height-alt: 8.25pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="COLOR: black"&gt;&lt;?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /&gt;&lt;v:shapetype id=_x0000_t75 stroked="f" filled="f" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" o:preferrelative="t" o:spt="75" coordsize="21600,21600"&gt;&lt;v:stroke joinstyle="miter"&gt;&lt;/v:stroke&gt;&lt;v:formulas&gt;&lt;v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"&gt;&lt;/v:f&gt;&lt;v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"&gt;&lt;/v:f&gt;&lt;v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"&gt;&lt;/v:f&gt;&lt;v:f eqn="</description><pubDate>Wed, 11 Jan 2006 00:48:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>I have the front bar of american GTO and i wondering if you where i can get the grills for it</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10051</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; Check with some LS1GTO forum members that have installed the SAP grilles.  They may have some laying around.  Or else get with Fred Beans, a Sponsor on the forum about getting a set.</description><pubDate>Tue, 10 Jan 2006 00:01:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>Installing Sony HCB-30 Bluetooth Car Kit</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10002</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;COST:                HCB-30 - $86.00 (E-Bay)&lt;BR&gt;                          Phone Connector - $4.06 (Local Pontiac Parts Dept)&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;TIME:                  2-3 hours&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;DIFFICULTY:       Intermediate&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;GM Phone Connector &lt;BR&gt;P/N:  92143075&lt;BR&gt;Pins came from the service dept.  I told them about bin locations, and they told me they didn't have such a system, so we went looking through a box of pins.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/6c363c2d-d8cc-4f0e-a2dd-16bb.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;The sections outlined in red is what is being removed.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/3bcdabdc-f47e-45f9-9ec5-2cf3.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;Lower the glove box and remove the 2 Phillips screws.  You might need a long or small thin screwdriver to get the bottom screw.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/ccbf841d-9d75-435e-9d64-11cc.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;Gently wiggle side suede panel down.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/</description><pubDate>Mon, 09 Jan 2006 04:03:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>Install K&amp;N AirCharger CAI on the LS2</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10032</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;&lt;SPAN id=_ctl0_ArticleRepeater__ctl1_ArticleText&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;COST:                 $219 - $279 (Depending on Supplier)                            &lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;TIME:                    2 Hours at most&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;DIFFICULTY:         Novice&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;1.  All required hardware and parts unpaked.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;IMG height=384 hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/6cc9749b-5404-482d-a5d9-1c62.jpg" width=512 border=0&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;2.  Disconnect Negative Battery cable using a 10mm socket.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;IMG height=384 hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/7ca67cbf-e953-40c5-926d-e479.jpg" width=512 border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;3.  Release the center pin on the 5 radiator cover clips using a flathead screwdriver and gently pry them upward.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;IMG height=384 hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/b54835bf-746f-4ad6-9344-d320.jpg" width=512 border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;4.  Remove all the clips from the radiator cover and put away.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;IMG height=384 hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/2f429561-42bc-4985-b852-58fc.jpg" width=512 border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;5.  Disconnect the crank case vent hose from the factory intake tube.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;IMG height=384 hspac</description><pubDate>Mon, 09 Jan 2006 04:02:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>Radar Detector Hardwire</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10003</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;COST:                 $0.00&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;TIME:                  30 Minutes&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;DIFFICULTY:       Novice&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;Place wire along the windshield under the headliner.  &lt;BR&gt;The front of the headliner is pretty easy to lower.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/159874dc-8f54-4dc6-9e58-94f5.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;Tuck wire inside the A - pillar.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/778e881c-af10-42e2-b291-d988.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;Tuck were the dash and the A - Pillar meet.  &lt;FONT color=#dd3333 size=1&gt;(Note from DY: The a-pillar will snap off with a little force.  Best bet is to pull down from where the a-pillar meets the headliner.  It will pop off and allow for room to run wires perfectly.)&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/43698752-0890-4177-8afa-c84d.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;Tuck behind the side air vent then to the fuse box.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/a3493d4a-fb87-4fbd-b7b7-1198.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt; Pull the lower panel to access the fuse box.  &lt;BR&gt;Pull in the direction of the arrows.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#111111&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/8090b1d3-fe44-4fb4-a2b2-6ee0.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FON</description><pubDate>Mon, 09 Jan 2006 04:02:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>Remove Rear Bumper and Plastic Insert</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10046</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;&lt;SPAN id=_ctl0_ArticleRepeater__ctl1_ArticleText&gt; &lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;&lt;SPAN id=_ctl0_ArticleRepeater__ctl1_ArticleText&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;COST:                 $0.00                           &lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;TIME:                    45min as a 1st timer&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;DIFFICULTY:         Novice&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"&gt;1.  Remove 2 plastic fasteners (1 on each side).  Loosen plastic screw and pull out.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG height=384 hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/648f99b6-c661-4e88-8672-3cce.jpg" width=512 border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;2.  Remove 4 Plastic Rivets&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG height=384 hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/12eb6b62-e46d-4288-91b6-4050.jpg" width=512 border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;3.  Remove 4 plastic caps using a flat head jewelers screwdriver.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG height=384 hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/2fd02ace-1966-43f3-a05b-ef78.jpg" width=512 border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;4.  Remove 4 screws underneath plastic caps.&lt;BR&gt;5.  Remove 4 plastic fasteners - loosen plastic screw and pull fastener out.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG height=384 hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/15671852-bc9e-48e1-aad3-bb63.jpg" width=512 border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;6.  Get underneath car and remove 2 bumper screws on each side.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG height=384 hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/cc07989e-f84a-4ac1-a895-bdde.jpg" width=512 border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;7.  Screw Removed&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG height=384 hspace=0 s</description><pubDate>Mon, 09 Jan 2006 04:01:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Chris Butigieg</dc:creator></item><item><title>How do I make the shift light work on an automatic, 2004 GTO?</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10061</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;Contact Chris White -&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt; &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;A href="http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/Content/programming.aspx"&gt;http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/Content/programming.aspx&lt;/A&gt;&lt;/P&gt;</description><pubDate>Fri, 16 Dec 2005 03:56:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>Rear Speaker Installation</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10042</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;1.&lt;/STRONG&gt; Ensure that the radio is turned off. &lt;BR&gt;&lt;B&gt;2.&lt;/B&gt; Remove the rear quarter trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter in Interior Trim. &lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8088&amp;amp;stc=1"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;I&gt;2(a)&lt;/I&gt;Lift the front of the rear seat cushion assembly (1), to gain access to the rear seat cushion release handles (2). &lt;BR&gt;&lt;I&gt;2(b)&lt;/I&gt;Pull the release handle horizontally outwards, while lifting the front of the rear seat cushion until the lock mechanism is released. &lt;BR&gt;&lt;I&gt;2(c)&lt;/I&gt;Maneuver the seat belt buckles through the 2 slots in the rear seat center pad. &lt;BR&gt;&lt;I&gt;2(d)&lt;/I&gt;Remove the rear seat. &lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8089&amp;amp;stc=1"&gt; &lt;BR&gt;&lt;I&gt;2(e)&lt;/I&gt;Remove two rear seat back retaining screws (1). &lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8090&amp;amp;stc=1"&gt; &lt;BR&gt;&lt;I&gt;2(f)&lt;/I&gt;Lift the rear seat back assembly up until the seat back retaining hooks (1) release from the retaining slots (2) in the rear compartment front panel. &lt;BR&gt;&lt;I&gt;2(g)&lt;/I&gt;Remove the rear seat back rest from the vehicle. &lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8091&amp;amp;stc=1"&gt; &lt;BR&gt;&lt;I&gt;2(h)&lt;/I&gt;Using a small screwdriver, push in on the center of the front seat track outer covers (1). &lt;BR&gt;&lt;I&gt;2(i)&lt;/I&gt;Unclip the covers (1) from the seat track and disengage from the side sill trim. &lt;BR&gt;&lt;I&gt;2(j)&lt;/I&gt;Pull the covers (1) apart and remove.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8092&amp;amp;stc=1"&gt; &lt;BR&gt;&lt;I&gt;2(k)&lt;/I&gt;Remove the seat belt bolt access cover (1) then remove the seat belt bolt (2), seat belt anchor (3), washer (4) and spacer (5). &lt;BR&gt;&lt;I&gt;2(l)&lt;/I&gt;Carefully lift the door sill plate trim plate (6) from the door sill plate (7) starting at the front and moving rearwards. &lt;BR&gt;&lt;I&gt;2(m)&lt;/I&gt;Remove the door sill plate-to-rear quarter panel retainer (8). &lt;BR&gt;Remove 4 door sill plate retaining screws (9). &lt;BR&gt;&lt;I&gt;2(n)&lt;/I&gt;Pull</description><pubDate>Fri, 07 Oct 2005 17:01:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>Koni Front Strut Installation</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10036</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;This article will explain how to remove the struts from the car&lt;BR&gt;&lt;A href="http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10037"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"&gt;&lt;FONT size=2&gt;http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10037&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/A&gt;&lt;?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"&gt;The following will explain the specific installation procedure for the front Koni Struts.&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Here is a great reason to replace the stock struts with the KONIs…&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.mpedrick.net/gallery/albums/KONI-Install-Pics/sm_00_STRUTS_worn_bump_stop.jpg"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Even though I had trimmed the bump stop when I installed the Pedder Springs the Struts were not able to control the Springs and as you can see, I was bottoming out the strut on the bigger bumps and it ended up damaging the bump stop.&lt;BR&gt;Also worth noting – the stock struts would stay compressed with no weight on them. They did not push back out like the KONIs do.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;After you have the Strut removed you will need to remove the spring (as noted I those other instructions). When you remove the strut top be sure to remove it carefully. There is a bearing race in there that could come apart (in fact, this has happened to others).&lt;BR&gt;Here is a pic of that part…&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.mpedrick.net/gallery/albums/KONI-Install-Pics/sm_01_STRUTS_bearings.jpg"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;It is that yellow and white ring under the strut top.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Now you can drill a small hole in the bottom of the strut so most of the fluid can be drained before you start cutting on it.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.mpedrick.net/gallery/albums/KONI-Install-Pics/sm_02_STRUTS_small_hole.jpg"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;I used one of the strut washers on the bottom of this strut to help me eyeball the center of the bottom for the center punch. The 14mm hole you will drill should be big enough tha</description><pubDate>Fri, 07 Oct 2005 16:58:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>Step By Step Pictorial Of Radio and Console Removal</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10007</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; &lt;P&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;Note:&lt;/STRONG&gt; I would strongly suggest getting the radio removal tools. Personal Opinion and all, but it really made the job fast and easy. &lt;BR&gt;Nothing in the whole process is difficult at all.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/6cabf361-feb2-49da-a6df-488b.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/b88bec4c-4e68-4d59-ab08-f5c0.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/ea1b88f1-5c6f-485a-8d4c-78b6.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/aeb42bd1-b76b-4fa1-8a4a-b373.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/5593bfb1-6a90-46f3-b18c-7127.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/be31ac4d-1a2c-4fd9-bdb0-2d65.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/d5fe50fb-44eb-463a-aed1-04a0.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/a9699b59-3e89-4f1b-ab84-8bd6.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/6e2ac76a-4927-40d2-87b8-f16b.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/6f1f9928-09bd-4272-ba6b-a2d2.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;IMG hspace=0 src="http://www.redgto.com/kb/Attachments/92c5ca98-b5e3-4247-818e-385f.jpg" border=0&gt;&lt;/P&gt;</description><pubDate>Fri, 07 Oct 2005 16:57:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item><item><title>Door Speaker Installation</title><link>http://www.redss.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10040</link><description>&lt;B&gt;Abstract:&lt;/B&gt; First of all, you'll want to go buy some speakers that will fit the doors. 6.5" coaxial are common and inexpensive and should sound fairly good compared to stock. Their isnt much depth to work with so consider that when buying anything aftermarket. I didnt think to measure the depth when I had them out or else i'd post the limits. Becides, you can always remove the stock 'basket' and trim it to make more room. As far as I can tell, their is plenty of space behind it but you will loose the water protection from the top/rear if you trim the whole thing away.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Anyhow, now that you have your replacement speakers you can start the install. &lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Things you will want to have on hand before you begin:&lt;BR&gt;#2 Phillips Screwdriver&lt;BR&gt;#2 Stubby Phillips Screwdriver (or right angle driver)&lt;BR&gt;Flat Screwdriver with a small tip&lt;BR&gt;4 wire taps for 16-22 gauge wire (they should be red, any type will work)&lt;BR&gt;Vice Grips (or any other tool to crimp the wire taps on)&lt;BR&gt;Speaker wire (should be included with your speakers)&lt;BR&gt;Plug on wire terminals (should be included with your speakers)&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;For comparison sake, here is a picture of the factory speaker next to a 6.5" Kenwood Excelon coaxial that I installed in my car.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7477&amp;amp;stc=1"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7478&amp;amp;stc=1"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;The first step to the swap once you are prepaired is to remove the door panel. This is held on by 10 screws and the top edge is pressed onto the frame of the door itself. This diagram shows the location of the screws.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;IMG src="http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7476&amp;amp;stc=1"&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;The four screws along the bottom edge of the panel are slightly different than the other six screws. Try not to mix these up or you may have to switch them around again.&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Their is also a screw hidden behind the door lock button. To access it you must use the small</description><pubDate>Fri, 07 Oct 2005 16:51:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DevilYellow</dc:creator></item></channel></rss>